Saturday, 20 November 2010
Another New project - Triumph Spitfire Race Car
The car is going to receive full top to bottom restoration, but it's going to be built for a new life, as a road legal sprint and hillclimb car.
As well as all the normal restoration work, the car will be fitted with a full roll cage, tuned engine and modified suspension, and will be stripped out as light as sensibly possible while still keeping it usable.
On getting the car to the workshop, it was stripped down to the bare body and chassis, and was taken for sand blasting. The car is now blasted and primed. More pictures to follow soon. It's going to be a busy winter!
New project - 1972 Audi 100S Coupe
The car and all the panels have now been sand blasted and etch primed, to reveal all the true horrors that lurked beneath the filler.....
As I write this, large steps have allready been made into repairing the shell. Some pictures will be posted shortly.
Tuesday, 21 September 2010
1965 MGB Roadster: Feeling (Iris) Blue
Sunday, 5 September 2010
New mystery project - can you tell what it is yet?
The first stage, as always, is to strip the car right down for sand blasting.
For now, Im going to leave you all guessing what the car is, and no, it isn't an Aston Martin!
1965 MGB roadster - The restoration continues
The car is now prepped and nearly ready for top coat. The doors have been checked and adjusted for fit, the wings are fitted, as is a new front valance. Any edges and areas on these panels that are hidden, were painted before fitting, to make sure no areas were left in primer.
The engine bay and boot are painted first, and will be masked off when the outer is painted, to prevent over spray. As you can see, the car is being painted in Iris blue - the colour it left the factory. Before long the car should be this colour all over, and ready for rebuilding.
Series one Land Rover: Finished
The final touch to the restoration was the adding of a roof. The vehicle had previously been fitted with a hard top, so rather than spending ages finding all correct soft-top bits second hand, everything was purchased new from Exmoor trim - a well known company for all things Land Rover trim related.
Not only did they supply a new hood, but new hood sticks and window channels and all the fittings. The hoods are made to the original Land Rover patterns, so look just right, and really finished off the restoration.
The vehicle is now back with its owner, being enjoyed attending shows and going off camping, another job done!
Saturday, 10 July 2010
Series One Land rover
The chassis, fuel tank and axles were all thoroughly cleaned, painted in an anti rust primer and then given a few coats of black enamel. The front springs were replaced with new items along with various bushes and bolts, and things like steering, pedals and prop-shafts have all been greased. Also, the brake pipes (including flexi peipes) and wheel cylinders have been renewed.
The old mix of worn out tyres have been replaced with a brand new set of suitably nobbly 6.00x16 crossplys. Supplied by the good folks at Longstone Tyres (a good source of old style crossplys for all kinds of vehicles) they look the part, and wernt any more expensive than cheap radial remoulds.
It was then time to get on with the bodywork. As mentioned before, the owner stated that he wanted the vehicle to be tidy and usable, and concious of cost, the bodywork was given a quick prep down, with the wrost of the dents and old body filler being rectified.
The vehicle is now looking much better in its original 'mid bronze' green colour.
The wiring has been replaced with a nice new loom from Autosparks and everything is now connected back up and working. Due to the fact that the originals were broken or missing the side lights and indicators have been replaced with brand new series 2/3 land rover items.
Within the next few days the vehicle should be back up and running, driving, and ready for its first MOT in a good few years!
Latest worshop news
Firstly, the 1968 MG Midget restoration is finished, and is now on the road and back living with its owner, being enjoyed in the summer weather. Ill let the pictures do the talking, the final results were very pleasing, especially considering the cars original state.
As always there has been plenty of other cars in the workshop for smaller jobs, such as Servicing, MOT work and other repairs. Ive added the next few pictures just to show some of the cars that have visited recently.
Monday, 10 May 2010
Series one Land Rover SWB
The Vehicle has been sat for a number of years, and the owner wants it usuable and presentable again, without it being overly restored.
It needs various welding to the bulkhead and chassis, the wiring needs replacing, and things like the brakes and suspension will need some attention. Once all the mechanicals are done, the plan is to paint the chassis and running gear, and then refitt the bodywork, and repaint the vehicle in its original bronze green colour.
Saturday, 1 May 2010
Midget sprint and hillclimb car
Luckily, I managed to do about 600 miles before it was due to be on the rollers, and the night before, I changed the running in oil and filter, and checked all the tappet clearances to make sure all was well.
As always, a rolling road session proved invaluable with a modified engine.
Encouragingly, going up several sizes on the chokes and main jets kept yielding more power, and a drop in air corrector size, and increase on the pump jets had everything running perfectly.
I use Interpro in Thornbury for my rolling road work. Dave Grithiths, the operator, is very knowledgeable, and their rolling road also measures the transmission loss - meaning some very accurate flywheel horse power figures can be calculated.
The final results? 107bhp at the flywheel (78 at the wheels) and 95lbsft of tourqe.
I'm extremely pleased with these figures, as the cylinder head is 100% my own work as is the assembly, and everything apart from the actual boring and grinding. Dave commented on how tractable the engine was, despite the very light bottom end, and fairly wild camshaft.
Since the rolling road, I've managed to put about 850 miles on the engine, of reasonably relaxed driving, and before the first sprint, I'll change the oil and filter again, this time using some high quality racing oil.
1968 MG midget build
The car is sat on new minilite wheels, and virtually all the components are are new or rebuilt, and even the new components have been treated to a good coat of paint.
Actually, since this picture was taken, more bits have been fitted back on, and it shouldnt be long before it's looking like a finished car.
Sunday, 28 March 2010
1968 MG midget - let the build begin
Recently there has been some action with the 1968 MG midget I restored last year (see the photo gallery on the main website). After I’d done all the metal work on the car, the owner took it away, as before he brought it to me, he already had a friend who he wanted to paint it (as his friend is a painter by trade).
The other day the owner called me to tell me the car was painted and that he would like me to collect it and start rebuilding it as soon as I could.
So the car is now back in the workshop, looking very nice, and ready for reassembly. Once I've finished rebuilding the engine (see 1330 engine build post) I'll start building the car back up in between other work.
Thursday, 25 March 2010
MG midget Sprint and hillclimb car - winter rebuild
The 'new' engine is a 1380cc (73.5mm powermax pistons), and amongst other bits has got: wedged crank, lightened rods, super light flywheel, rimflow valves and lots of other nice bits. Although id be happy with anything over 90Bhp, it would be nice to break the 100 mark, which should be possible with the parts im using. I'll find out in april, as its booked in on the rolling road.
The car when i built it, started out as a mildy modified road car, but the more I've sprinted it, the more I've changed it.
Along with the 'new' engine Ive also built up a straight cut close ratio gearbox ready to fit, plus I'll be fitting a lower final drive.
Unfortunately, I can no longer use the excuse of having a smaller capacity engine than anyone else (!)
1968 MG midget - 1330 Engine build
Due to the fact the engine was already +40 the decision was taken to bore it to 60 thou, giving a useful 1330cc. Aswell as being reground, the crank and all the bottom end has been balanced, and the flywheel has been lightened, to make a sweet and lively engine. All rod, head and bottom end fixings have been replaced with high tensile items for reliability, and the center main bearing will be machined and strapped.
The cylinder head has been modified, with race quality 35.6mm inlet valves and 29.5mm exhaust. The head has been thoroughly re-worked with lots of attention to the ports and combustion chambers. The engine is also recieving: new high lift camshaft, followers, progressive valve springs, light weight timing chain set, high flow oil pump, and modified cooper S distributor.
All cylinder head work is done 'in house' as is all the engine building, with only certain machining being 'farmed out'. By being able to give the machinist the bare components, ready to be machined and knowing exactly what I want doing, I am able to build good quality engines, at a very reasonable cost to the customer.
Once this engine is built up, and fitted with the correct induction and exhaust components, it should hopefully produce 90+bhp. More importantly, it should be very tractable, and a very strong and usable road engine.
Saturday, 6 March 2010
More work on the 65 MGB roadster
The right hand floor pan is now replaced, as is this half of the cross member. This side of the vehicle actually proved to be a little easier, despite a few ugly patches, all the of the old floor and grot came out with minimal (ok about a half a day!) of grinding and un-picking. The hoop of metal around the jacking point tube was a bit grotty this side, so it was ground off and a new piece was made up before the jacking point was welded back in place on the new cross member.
There was also a bit of work to be done around the spring hanger, as it had been partly plated over and was all of a mess. after cutting out the plated and rusty areas, half the stiffener plate was re made, to keep everything looking original.
Monday, 15 February 2010
1965 MGB Roadster Restoration
I recently did some more work on the 1965 'pull handle' MGB roadster undergoing restoration in the workshop. Both floor pans were rather patched and horrible, so I started by removing the left hand one. This was no easy task, as it has been patched in places, and where someone had once fitted new sills , it was brazed along the entire outer edge. Rather than half an hour drilling out spot welds, it became hours of grinding back ancient blobs of brass until the edges were back to good clean steel, ready for the new floor.
Once the new pan was trimmed, adjusted to fit, and welded in place, half of the centre cross member was cut out and replaced. The cross member didn't look too bad externally, but with the old floor pan removed, it wasn't a pretty sight inside, so I decided the best idea was to cut it out and replace it. Rather than chop the whole thing out in one go, which could leave the car a bit flexible, I decided to do it one half at a time to minimize shell movement. I will replace the other half when I replace the right hand floor pan - an internal stiffener will be welded inside the centre join of the new cross member to compensate.
To finish off it was just a case of welding the jacking point back on (which id carefully cut from the old cross member) and a quick coat of primer to stop the welds rusting.
Now I just have to do the same the other side, only it looks like that sides had even more brazing....
Monday, 8 February 2010
Austin A40 engine rebuild
In the workshop recently:
The owner of this Austin A40 Somerset has become a regular customer.
Before I started looking after the car, it suffered from regular head gasket failure - a problem the Somerset and Devon 1200cc engines are prone to. When the gasket failed recently, the decision was taken to properly rectify the problem.
The engine was pulled and stripped, and the head and block were skimmed showing both faces to be uneven. A few mods were made to the way the studs located the head, the core plugs removed and the cooling system thoroughly cleaned (there was ½ an inch of rust/sludge in places!).
The engine was checked while it was apart and found to be in very good condition. The valves were lapped in and new valve springs, chain tensioner and water pump were fitted. Everything was cleaned to remove many years worth of grime before re-assembly with new gaskets and core plugs. All the head fixings were carefully checked and cleaned, and the head very carefully torqued in gradual stages. To finish things off, the engine was given a coat of Austin engine green.
Today the engine went back into the car and everything was fitted up and re-connected. Tomorrow should see it running and finished, lets hope the problem is sorted once and for all!