Sunday, 28 March 2010
1968 MG midget - let the build begin
Recently there has been some action with the 1968 MG midget I restored last year (see the photo gallery on the main website). After I’d done all the metal work on the car, the owner took it away, as before he brought it to me, he already had a friend who he wanted to paint it (as his friend is a painter by trade).
The other day the owner called me to tell me the car was painted and that he would like me to collect it and start rebuilding it as soon as I could.
So the car is now back in the workshop, looking very nice, and ready for reassembly. Once I've finished rebuilding the engine (see 1330 engine build post) I'll start building the car back up in between other work.
Thursday, 25 March 2010
MG midget Sprint and hillclimb car - winter rebuild
On a slightly less work related note, my own Midget is having a bit of a winter re-work (ok, its spring now!) The car was previously running a fairly well modded 1115cc engine (bored 1098) with formula junior valves, 40DCOE etc, putting out a healthy 86bhp. However, my class allows me to go up to 1400CC, so a new engine is currently under construction.
The 'new' engine is a 1380cc (73.5mm powermax pistons), and amongst other bits has got: wedged crank, lightened rods, super light flywheel, rimflow valves and lots of other nice bits. Although id be happy with anything over 90Bhp, it would be nice to break the 100 mark, which should be possible with the parts im using. I'll find out in april, as its booked in on the rolling road.
The car when i built it, started out as a mildy modified road car, but the more I've sprinted it, the more I've changed it.
Along with the 'new' engine Ive also built up a straight cut close ratio gearbox ready to fit, plus I'll be fitting a lower final drive.
Unfortunately, I can no longer use the excuse of having a smaller capacity engine than anyone else (!)
The 'new' engine is a 1380cc (73.5mm powermax pistons), and amongst other bits has got: wedged crank, lightened rods, super light flywheel, rimflow valves and lots of other nice bits. Although id be happy with anything over 90Bhp, it would be nice to break the 100 mark, which should be possible with the parts im using. I'll find out in april, as its booked in on the rolling road.
The car when i built it, started out as a mildy modified road car, but the more I've sprinted it, the more I've changed it.
Along with the 'new' engine Ive also built up a straight cut close ratio gearbox ready to fit, plus I'll be fitting a lower final drive.
Unfortunately, I can no longer use the excuse of having a smaller capacity engine than anyone else (!)
1968 MG midget - 1330 Engine build
Currently being built up is the engine for the 1968 MG midget (pictured in the photo gallery) On stripping the engine, it was found to be in pretty poor health, with a broken piston ring, worn crank and all the usual wear and tear.
Due to the fact the engine was already +40 the decision was taken to bore it to 60 thou, giving a useful 1330cc. Aswell as being reground, the crank and all the bottom end has been balanced, and the flywheel has been lightened, to make a sweet and lively engine. All rod, head and bottom end fixings have been replaced with high tensile items for reliability, and the center main bearing will be machined and strapped.
The cylinder head has been modified, with race quality 35.6mm inlet valves and 29.5mm exhaust. The head has been thoroughly re-worked with lots of attention to the ports and combustion chambers. The engine is also recieving: new high lift camshaft, followers, progressive valve springs, light weight timing chain set, high flow oil pump, and modified cooper S distributor.
All cylinder head work is done 'in house' as is all the engine building, with only certain machining being 'farmed out'. By being able to give the machinist the bare components, ready to be machined and knowing exactly what I want doing, I am able to build good quality engines, at a very reasonable cost to the customer.
Once this engine is built up, and fitted with the correct induction and exhaust components, it should hopefully produce 90+bhp. More importantly, it should be very tractable, and a very strong and usable road engine.
Due to the fact the engine was already +40 the decision was taken to bore it to 60 thou, giving a useful 1330cc. Aswell as being reground, the crank and all the bottom end has been balanced, and the flywheel has been lightened, to make a sweet and lively engine. All rod, head and bottom end fixings have been replaced with high tensile items for reliability, and the center main bearing will be machined and strapped.
The cylinder head has been modified, with race quality 35.6mm inlet valves and 29.5mm exhaust. The head has been thoroughly re-worked with lots of attention to the ports and combustion chambers. The engine is also recieving: new high lift camshaft, followers, progressive valve springs, light weight timing chain set, high flow oil pump, and modified cooper S distributor.
All cylinder head work is done 'in house' as is all the engine building, with only certain machining being 'farmed out'. By being able to give the machinist the bare components, ready to be machined and knowing exactly what I want doing, I am able to build good quality engines, at a very reasonable cost to the customer.
Once this engine is built up, and fitted with the correct induction and exhaust components, it should hopefully produce 90+bhp. More importantly, it should be very tractable, and a very strong and usable road engine.
Saturday, 6 March 2010
More work on the 65 MGB roadster
The right hand floor pan is now replaced, as is this half of the cross member. This side of the vehicle actually proved to be a little easier, despite a few ugly patches, all the of the old floor and grot came out with minimal (ok about a half a day!) of grinding and un-picking. The hoop of metal around the jacking point tube was a bit grotty this side, so it was ground off and a new piece was made up before the jacking point was welded back in place on the new cross member.
There was also a bit of work to be done around the spring hanger, as it had been partly plated over and was all of a mess. after cutting out the plated and rusty areas, half the stiffener plate was re made, to keep everything looking original.
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