1968 MG midget - let the build begin

Recently there has been some action with the 1968 MG midget I restored last year (see the photo gallery on the main website). After I’d done all the metal work on the car, the owner took it away, as before he brought it to me, he already had a friend who he wanted to paint it (as his friend is a painter by trade).
The other day the owner called me to tell me the car was painted and that he would like me to collect it and start rebuilding it as soon as I could.

So the car is now back in the workshop, looking very nice, and ready for reassembly. Once I've finished rebuilding the engine (see 1330 engine build post) I'll start building the car back up in between other work.

MG midget Sprint and hillclimb car - winter rebuild

On a slightly less work related note, my own Midget is having a bit of a winter re-work (ok, its spring now!) The car was previously running a fairly well modded 1115cc engine (bored 1098) with formula junior valves, 40DCOE etc, putting out a healthy 86bhp. However, my class allows me to go up to 1400CC, so a new engine is currently under construction.
The 'new' engine is a 1380cc (73.5mm powermax pistons), and amongst other bits has got: wedged crank, lightened rods, super light flywheel, rimflow valves and lots of other nice bits. Although id be happy with anything over 90Bhp, it would be nice to break the 100 mark, which should be possible with the parts im using. I'll find out in april, as its booked in on the rolling road.
The car when i built it, started out as a mildy modified road car, but the more I've sprinted it, the more I've changed it.
Along with the 'new' engine Ive also built up a straight cut close ratio gearbox ready to fit, plus I'll be fitting a lower final drive.
Unfortunately, I can no longer use the excuse of having a smaller capacity engine than anyone else (!)

1968 MG midget - 1330 Engine build

Currently being built up is the engine for the 1968 MG midget (pictured in the photo gallery) On stripping the engine, it was found to be in pretty poor health, with a broken piston ring, worn crank and all the usual wear and tear.
Due to the fact the engine was already +40 the decision was taken to bore it to 60 thou, giving a useful 1330cc. Aswell as being reground, the crank and all the bottom end has been balanced, and the flywheel has been lightened, to make a sweet and lively engine. All rod, head and bottom end fixings have been replaced with high tensile items for reliability, and the center main bearing will be machined and strapped.

The cylinder head has been modified, with race quality 35.6mm inlet valves and 29.5mm exhaust. The head has been thoroughly re-worked with lots of attention to the ports and combustion chambers. The engine is also recieving: new high lift camshaft, followers, progressive valve springs, light weight timing chain set, high flow oil pump, and modified cooper S distributor.

All cylinder head work is done 'in house' as is all the engine building, with only certain machining being 'farmed out'. By being able to give the machinist the bare components, ready to be machined and knowing exactly what I want doing, I am able to build good quality engines, at a very reasonable cost to the customer.

Once this engine is built up, and fitted with the correct induction and exhaust components, it should hopefully produce 90+bhp. More importantly, it should be very tractable, and a very strong and usable road engine.

More work on the 65 MGB roadster

The right hand floor pan is now replaced, as is this half of the cross member. This side of the vehicle actually proved to be a little easier, despite a few ugly patches, all the of the old floor and grot came out with minimal (ok about a half a day!) of grinding and un-picking. The hoop of metal around the jacking point tube was a bit grotty this side, so it was ground off and a new piece was made up before the jacking point was welded back in place on the new cross member.



There was also a bit of work to be done around the spring hanger, as it had been partly plated over and was all of a mess. after cutting out the plated and rusty areas, half the stiffener plate was re made, to keep everything looking original.

1965 MGB Roadster Restoration

I recently did some more work on the 1965 'pull handle' MGB roadster undergoing restoration in the workshop. Both floor pans were rather patched and horrible, so I started by removing the left hand one. This was no easy task, as it has been patched in places, and where someone had once fitted new sills , it was brazed along the entire outer edge. Rather than half an hour drilling out spot welds, it became hours of grinding back ancient blobs of brass until the edges were back to good clean steel, ready for the new floor.


Once the new pan was trimmed, adjusted to fit, and welded in place, half of the centre cross member was cut out and replaced. The cross member didn't look too bad externally, but with the old floor pan removed, it wasn't a pretty sight inside, so I decided the best idea was to cut it out and replace it. Rather than chop the whole thing out in one go, which could leave the car a bit flexible, I decided to do it one half at a time to minimize shell movement. I will replace the other half when I replace the right hand floor pan - an internal stiffener will be welded inside the centre join of the new cross member to compensate.
To finish off it was just a case of welding the jacking point back on (which id carefully cut from the old cross member) and a quick coat of primer to stop the welds rusting.

Now I just have to do the same the other side, only it looks like that sides had even more brazing....

Austin A40 engine rebuild

In the workshop recently:

The owner of this Austin A40 Somerset has become a regular customer.

Before I started looking after the car, it suffered from regular head gasket failure - a problem the Somerset and Devon 1200cc engines are prone to. When the gasket failed recently, the decision was taken to properly rectify the problem.

The engine was pulled and stripped, and the head and block were skimmed showing both faces to be uneven. A few mods were made to the way the studs located the head, the core plugs removed and the cooling system thoroughly cleaned (there was ½ an inch of rust/sludge in places!).

The engine was checked while it was apart and found to be in very good condition. The valves were lapped in and new valve springs, chain tensioner and water pump were fitted. Everything was cleaned to remove many years worth of grime before re-assembly with new gaskets and core plugs. All the head fixings were carefully checked and cleaned, and the head very carefully torqued in gradual stages. To finish things off, the engine was given a coat of Austin engine green.

Today the engine went back into the car and everything was fitted up and re-connected. Tomorrow should see it running and finished, lets hope the problem is sorted once and for all!